Down By The Jetty - The Wave

When Bruce Brown released his seminal film “Endless Summer” in 1966, he started a misconception that continues to this day amongst non-surfers–that summer is the best time of year to surf. Quite often, I’m asked if this is surfing’s “high season,” and to those who haven’t devoted their lives to the somewhat useless act of riding waves, that would seem to make sense. After all, the sun is shining, the water is warm, and all that’s needed to enter the ocean is a simple bathing suit. This fits well with the layperson’s idea of what surfing looks like: sandy beaches, blue water, a few palm trees, and flower print trunks and bikinis. It doesn’t help that this is what surfing has branded itself to look like, either. Open any magazine or watch just about any surf video, and you’re likely to see perfect waves breaking in clear blue water, just off some white sandy beach with the palm trees and coconuts.